William Fox Pitt on Parkland Hawk Photo Credit Lisa Thoma

Allison Springer and Arthur gave William a run for the money, and this year her training & conditioning efforts paid off.  Not only did Allison finished a close second behind William on a score of 47, but she was also awarded Best Conditioned Horse.  Well done Allison!

Boyd Martin on Otis Barbotiere and Karen O’Connor riding Mr. Medicott, finished 3^rd and 4^th respectively, both ending on a score of 51.  With Boyd being closer to the optimum time on XC, he was awarded the 3rd place spot over Karen. Clearly both Otis and Mr. Medicott will give the Olympic selectors something to think about!  Boyd also finished 8th on Remington XXV while Phillip Dutton on Mighty Nice were 10^th and Fernhill Eagle took 12^th.

RevitaVet rider Jordan Linstedt (Redmond, WA) and Tullibards Hawkwind competed in their first Rolex 4* and showed raw determination in order to finish the event.  We give Jordan and Jack all the credit in the world for completing the event, regardless as to their final score.  It took a lot of guts and heart to get around the technically grueling XC course which saw half the field either get eliminated or retire.

Boyd Martin on Otis Barbotiere Photo Credit Lisa Thomas

Congratulations to all of the competitors and RevitaVet riders who made this event another good show.   We are proud to say that 3 of the top 4 finishers and 6 of the top 12 finishers are RevitaVet sponsored riders, and a whopping 35 percent of the original starting field are RevitaVet users!

Thank you all for your continued support.
Tom Neuman – RevitaVet Light Therapy
800-279-1479

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At what cost, physically and mentally, would a rider impose the frame on the right on the horse on the left. This well laid back shoulder that creates the lovely “daisy-cutter” trot isn’t suited to the passage, no matter that the horse’s papers might state he is a Warmblood.

Imagine forcing the horse on the left who shows such lovely elevation in the trot into the frame on the right just because she is of stock-horse bloodlines. Look at her structure, not her papers, to best choose her job.

It’s All About the Bones

Winnie’s face was peppered with white. Once there she had powerful dense, articulating muscles which now had given way to “senior wasting.” Winnie’s spine had become visibly concave and boney. Her massive American Quarter Horse hindquarter had lost its fullness and tone. When we went for a ride she was eager to get going and the spirit of her younger years was still there for the first half hour and then her age caught up with her.  Her “giddeeyup” was still in her heart but no longer in her legs.

Acupressure Points to Support Senior Equines

Acupressure Technique

While looking at the chart, place the soft, fleshy part of the tip of your thumb on the point indicated in the chart at a 45-to-90 degree angle from the horse’s body. Use about 1 pound of pressure, take care not to poke or hurt the horse. Comfortably rest your other hand of the horse, too. Hold your thumb on each acupoint and count to 30 or watch the horse for evidence of releasing of energy. An energetic release would be licking, yawning, stretching, or passing air. Repeat this procedure on both sides of your horse.

By Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis – Founders
Tallgrass Animal Acupressure Institute

Tallgrass Animal Acupressure Institute hands-on courses are being offered in Oxfordshire, England – 21^st – 31st May 2011 – Contact: infor@animalacupressure.com

The Intentional Horse – Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis are the authors of: Equine Acupressure: A Working Manual. They own Tallgrass Publishers, which offers Acupressure Books, DVDs, Meridian Charts for horses, dogs, and cats. They are the founders of Tallgrass Animal Acupressure Institute which provides hands-on and online training courses worldwide including a Practitioner Certification Program.

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Carolyn Henderson

10 October, 2006

Weaning is potentially one of the most stressful experiences in a horse’s lifetime — which means it can also be nerve-racking for foal owners. But whether you are a one-mare owner or run a large stud, vet and foal specialist Sarah Stoneham MRCVS says that it’s important to aim for problem prevention rather than cure.

“In the wild, weaning is very gradual,” she explains. “As the mare has a new foal, the previous one goes off with other youngstock to form bands within the herd.

“With the domesticated horse, the mare is either put in-foal again or goes into work. This means we have to take a different approach, but still minimise stress and problems: we need to do everything possible to reduce the risk of problems rather than have to treat them.”

Preparation is vital

“The long-term picture when aiming to produce a performance horse is that you need to minimise the risk of developmental problems, which means maintaining an even growth rate,” says Sarah, a partner at Rossdale & Partners, Newmarket, who runs the practice’s foal unit.

She says that before a foal is weaned, its digestive system must have reached a sufficient degree of maturity and adaptability to its diet. Although foals can be seen eating grass and perhaps their dams’ hard feed very early, the gut changes dramatically over the first few months.

“At first, it’s designed to digest milk, with a lot of digestion taking place in the small intestine, then it changes to become a hind gut fermenter,” she says. “It’s important not to overdo hard feed because of the risk of digestive and joint problems.

“Most feed manufacturers offer high-protein diets with high vitamin and mineral supplements to help foals grow, but although there is a balance between what is ideal and what is practical in situations where you have several pairs together, a fat foal will need a different approach from one who needs to gain weight.

“It’s a good idea to monitor height and weight before and after weaning to check that foals are growing evenly. A lot of feed companies have charts to make this easier, though it has to be related to birth weight, breed and environment.”

It is also important that the fibre intake is kept up, as lack of fibre has been associated with the start of stereotypic behaviour, notably weaving, crib biting and wind sucking. Although some researchers now believe that horses who start such behaviour have a predisposition to it, the stress of weaning can be a trigger.

Deciding when to wean

Some studies relating to thoroughbred foals recommend going by weight rather than age, but Sarah’s advice is that for most owners, age is an easier guideline.

“The bodyweight method has to be weight-and rearing conditions-specific,” she explained. “Most people will wean from six months onwards. If there are specific health problems, it can be done from four months onwards, but it’s difficult to wean at under five months without getting a check in the growth rate.”

Over a minimum period of a month before weaning, the foal must be adapted to eating appropriate and sufficient quantities of foal creep ration. There are various ways of feeding, but Sarah recommends creep feeding in the field as the best option.

“If you feed them in the stable so the foal eats from the mare’s manger, you have no control,” she says. “The creep feed system, where a sectional pen keeps the mares on the outside but allows foals to go in through archways to their feed, is much better; the best designs have adjustable archway heights.”

Separating mare and foal

When it’s time for foals to go it alone, approaches vary. While it is obviously easier for breeders with more than one foal, Sarah stresses that owners with just one broodmare should make sure the foal has appropriate company.

“Horses are herd animals and it’s inappropriate to keep a weaned foal on its own,” she said. “They need company and it’s also important for their normal development. Either team up with someone who has another mare and foal, or find a suitable companion.

“Stud farms often have a retired pony who acts as a nanny when needed, or even a quiet gelding. Old pony mares who have had a foal or two are often the best companions for single foals because they teach them what is acceptable behaviour and what isn’t.

“It’s much easier when you have a group of mares and foals of similar age who have been reared in a similar way. The best way here is to take one mare out of the field at a time, letting the group settle down again until you take the next away and leaving the calmest, most sensible mare in until last.”

The stress of weaning

Foals are individuals and react in different ways when their mothers disappear.

“Some don’t even notice and others will run up and down for a couple of days,” says Sarah. “Make sure the fencing is safe — and it helps to get the mare’s milk dried up if they are out of earshot.”

Minimizing stress is important for humane considerations, but also for long-term health.

“Anything that stresses a foal stresses its immune system,” says Sarah. “The development of the immune system is related to exposure to different diseases and it isn’t completely developed until over a year old. Stress-related problems include gastric ulcers and recurrent respiratory disease.”

Some breeders like to have colts gelded while they are still on the mare, reasoning that it is less stressful at that stage.

“Foals do seem to take the stress quite well when they are on the mare, so if the testicles have descended it might be worth considering,” says Sarah. “But if it isn’t possible, it should be done well after weaning when the foal has had a chance to become established.”

Making the break is a big step. But planning ahead gives odds in favour of mare and foal going their separate ways without stress or setbacks — for any of you.

Find your next foal at MyHorseForSale.com

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Okay, okay – I know it’s a silly title, but I couldn’t resist.  Recently a few of us were gabbing about the great releases that we were seeing when working on horses, when one newer-to-horses friend broke and and asked what the heck we were talking about.  Releasing?  Did we mean the horse let go of something?

It dawned on me that many people may not know what it means when their horse “releases”.  Releases are an outward physical sign of an internal or mental shift in energy.

Some release signs include:

• Yawning – sometimes convulsing the whole body
• Licking and Chewing
• Passing Gas
• Peeing or pooping repeatedly
• whole body stretches

Have you ever noticed your horse licking and chewing after you ask for a specific behavior or reaction to a cue?  They are mentally processing and incorporating your request into their lexicon. This is the physical manifestation of their internal shift. Sometimes it is an indication of an emotional reaction, often it is a sign of a physical one.  When pain decreases, balance improves or even just that they suddenly understand what you are asking of them – a horse will show you a sign.

Bodyworkers, therapists, trainers and even farriers see these releases all the time.  Charlotte Stein (barefoot trimmer from Canada) had this observation:

I have to admit, sometimes, I am slow on the uptake. This isn’t the greatest flaw to have as a hoof care provider, but I started to notice something when I got it right. The horse I’m working on would start to lick and chew audibly, or even in extreme cases I would get nuzzling and soft blows of breath into my hair.

The other night while trimming a friends gelding she remarked to me he’s doing a lot of licking, chewing and yawning.  I made the comment that my Bart! had done the same the other day when I further reduced his heel height. Oddly, we were reducing the heel height on this fella as well.

Thankfully my friend does energy work and understood what was happening and was kind enough to tell me that her horse was letting me know I had finally caught up!

So if you’ve ever just stood with your horses and noticed they lick or chew when relaxing, sometimes massive yawns happen (usually also the best time to start snapping great horse photographs!) and a softness comes over the animals body you’ve experienced release. If you’re really adept at listening, you may notice a calmness descending through the air around the horse.

To feel this happening when you are working with a horse is dramatic. Particularly when the horse is usually tense, so to suddenly feel him or her relax into what you are doing is a compliment and depending on what you are doing, a great confidence booster.

So listen to that horse, they’re not as quiet as you think!

We often see significant releases during our Equine Photopuncture and Light Therapy Certification Course classes.  During one class last year, we had a student who was frustrated that her scanning of an older, obviously lame mare wasn’t finding any out of balance energy points. She kept at it and finally located ONE point on Cameo’s neck. I pointed out that a Master Acupuncturist will try to find the ONE point to clear the body and to consider her scanning a success.

When she applied the Light Cluster Head to the point on the neck the mare began to release.  She literally yawned and stretched and farted, and peed for at least 15 minutes – just from a 1 minute light treatment. She moved considerably better that afternoon.  We scanned her again 2 days later, and this time the energy in her body was flowing much more pronouncedly, so we were able to locate far more points to treat. Each time we treated her, she repeatly showed her appreciation with a steady offering of great releases.

We would love to see pictures of your horses releasing!  Post them to our Facebook Page or send them to us via email.  What was happening when they released?  Knowing that can help improve your training or therapy results because they are telling you what works!

Kay Aubrey-Chimene -  Publisher and Editor
Director -

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Press Release

BOONVILLE, Mo. (March 27, 2012) – Warm Springs Ranch, the state-of-the-art breeding facility in mid-Missouri for the Budweiser Clydesdales, opens for public tours starting this Saturday. Opening day coincides with the height of foaling season, with more than 30 baby Clydesdales expected to be born this year.

“Spring is here and that means baby Budweiser Clydesdales are arriving, sometimes daily,” said John Soto, supervisor of Warm Springs Ranch. “Our foaling season starts in February and continues until June, so we still have a lot of work ahead of us and look forward to sharing the experience with visitors.”

Guests get to see and interact with the more than 100 Clydesdales who call the farm home, including those that appear on the traveling hitches and in some of the brand’s beloved television commercials. The herd includes “La Russa,” pictured at far right, one of last year’s new arrivals who was named after Cardinals manager Tony La Russa following his team’s World Series victory last November.

“La Russa is doing exceptionally well, growing up and looking good,” Soto said. “He is the perfect Budweiser Clydesdale and loves the beautiful pastures here in Cooper County. Look for him possibly to be leading a hitch in a few years, just in time for Tony La Russa’s entrance to Cooperstown.”

Last year the farm welcomed 11,648 visitors from around the country, up almost 30 percent from the year before, with visitors coming from as far away as Sweden and Australia. New this year at the ranch: Just like Anheuser-Busch’s brewery tours, adults guests will now be able to sample Budweiser at the end of their tour, which is fitting considering the horses’ connection with the iconic beer brand.

The Budweiser Clydesdales have been an integral part of Anheuser-Busch’s heritage for more than 75 years and their strength and majesty symbolize Budweiser quality. They were formally introduced on April 7, 1933, to celebrate the repeal of Prohibition for beer.

“The symbol has become synonymous with Budweiser — the quality that goes into the beer, as well as the time, energy and passion we put into taking care of the horses,” said Jeff Knapper, general manager of Clydesdales Operations for Anheuser-Busch.

Dedicated staff is on site around the clock to ensure the baby Clydesdales are welcomed into the world in comfort and safety. Those Clydesdales born with the proper markings for a Budweiser Clydesdale – a bay coat, a blaze of white on the face, four white stocking feet, and a black mane and tail – have a future spot on one of the traveling hitches. Warm Springs Ranch features a 25,000-square-foot breeding barn with a veterinary lab and 10 pastures, each with a customized, walk-in shelter and free-flowing water dispensers. The farm sits on 300-plus acres of land, allowing the Clydesdales plenty of room to exercise and roam.

Tours of Warm Springs Ranch are by reservation only and last approximately an hour and a half. Tours are offered daily, except Wednesdays, through Oct. 31. Admission price is $10. Children under the age of 2 are admitted free. Visit www.warmspringsranch.com for more information or to make a reservation. Tours are scheduled twice per day and last approximately an hour and a half.

Guests on the tour also will view the Clydesdales’ custom-made harnesses, a 1903 Studebaker-built beer wagon, and three luxury tractor-trailer units that transport the Clydesdales to appearances all around the country. They also will learn about the Budweiser Clydesdales’ breeding techniques.

“Last year we welcomed 35 foals into our Budweiser Clydesdale family and expect a similar number this year,” Knapper said. “We take great pride in each and every one of our horses, and Warm Springs Ranch is a great home. Anheuser-Busch has about 200 Clydesdales in our herd, with about half of them at Warm Springs Ranch in Cooper County.”

Based in St. Louis, Anheuser-Busch is the leading American brewer, holding a 47.7 percent share of U.S. beer sales to retailers. The company brews Budweiser and Bud Light, two of the world’s largest-selling beers. Anheuser-Busch also owns a 50 percent share in Grupo Modelo, Mexico’s leading brewer. Anheuser-Busch is a major manufacturer of aluminum cans and has been a leading aluminum recycler for more than 30 years. The company is a wholly-owned subsidiary of Anheuser-Busch InBev, the leading global brewer, and continues to operate under the Anheuser-Busch name and logo. For more information, visit www.anheuser-busch.com.

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The first sight of a Hackney has always engendered a cry of “What is that?” The crisp action of the trot, knees raised high at each step, hind quarters powerfully propelling, amazes the first time Hackney viewer.  visit http://hackneysociety.com/

Hackney horses are magnificent as carriage animals, but in past years have been on the endangered species list for horse breeds. Now, with the growing interest in carriage driving, Hackney horses are being sought out for their glamour and presence as singles, pairs, and fours. Admired for their versatility, their numbers are increasing. American broodmare bands are once again in production.

Hackney ponies, a small power-packed version of the Hackney horse, have been prized as show ponies and childhood companions. They are a good value, for they are easy to keep, stay sound and healthy into old age, have delightful personalities, and possess loveable characteristics. They may be trained to ride or drive and love to be petted, groomed, and handled. A Hackney pony can be a best friend whether you are young or old.

From Wikipedi

The Hackney Horse is a recognized breed of horse that was developed in Great Britain. In recent decades, the breeding of the Hackney has been directed toward producing horses that are ideal for carriage driving. They are an elegant high stepping breed of carriage horse that is popular for showing in harness events. Hackneys possess good stamina, and are capable of trotting at high speed for extended periods of time.

Breed history

The Hackney Horse breed was developed in the 14th century in Norfolk when the King of England required powerful but attractive horses with an excellent trot, to be used for general purpose riding horses. Since roads were rudimentary in those times, Hackneys were a primary riding horse, riding being the common mode of equine transportation. The trotting horses were more suitable as war horses than amblers with their pacing gaits. As a result, in 1542 King Henry VIII required his wealthy subjects keep a specified number of trotting horse stallions for breeding use.

In about 1729 a Norfolk Trotter stallion and an Arabian stallion contributed to the foundation stock for the modern Hackney Horse. The resulting Norfolk Roadster, as it was known, was a heavily built horse that was used as a work horse by farmers and others. It was also fast horse with good stamina.

Another famous horse was the stallion Original Shales, foaled in East Anglia in 1755. He was by the stallion Blaze, the son of the famous undefeated racehorse, Flying Childers who was a grandson of the great Darley Arabian (one of the three foundation stallions of the Thoroughbred breed). Original Shales sired two stallions—Scot Shales and Driver—both of which had a great influence on the Norfolk Trotter.^[1]

Messenger (GB), a 1780 grandson of Sampson, was a foundation sire of the present American Standardbred horse. Hambletonian 10 had at least three crosses of Messenger in the third and forth generations of his pedigree (3x4x4). In the 1820s “Norfolk Cob” was recorded as having done 2 miles in 5 minutes 4 seconds and was one of the famous horses of that breed along with “Nonpareil,” who was driven 100 miles in 9 hours 56 minutes 57 seconds.^[1]

In 1820 Bellfounder a Norfolk Trotter stallion who was able to trot 17 miles in an hour with 14 stone up, was exported to America where he was the damsire of Hambletonian 10. In this era, match-trotters competed under saddle, not harness. Later with improvements in roads, the Hackney was also used in harness, and he was then a riding and driving horse of high merit.^[2]

Robert and Philip Ramsdale, father and son, took the Norfolk horses Wroot’s Pretender and Phenomenon to Yorkshire, where they bred them with Yorkshire trotting mares. In July 1800, the celebrated Hackney mare, Phenomenon, was backed to trot 17 miles in 56 minutes for a bet of £400, which she did in 53 minutes.^[2] In 1832, one of Phenomenon’s daughters, the 14  hands Phenomena, trotted 17 miles in only 53 minutes. During the 19th century, with the expansion of the railway, the Norfolk breed fell out of favour, to be revived later by the Hackney Horse Society. The Norfolk and Yorkshire Trotter were selectively bred for elegant style and speed, and were developed into the modern Hackney Horse. The brilliant gaits of the Hackney Horse, however, saved it from extinction, and began its use in the show ring. They are still extremely successful in harness, and can also produce very nice riding horses, many known for their ability in show jumping and dressage competition.

In 1883, the Hackney Horse Society was formed in Norwich and the society’s stud book has records dating back to 1755 in the Hackney Stud Book.

Alexander Cassatt was responsible for the introduction of the Hackney Pony to the United States. In 1878 he acquired 239 Stella in Britain and brought her to Philadelphia. In 1891, Cassatt and other Hackney enthusiasts founded the American Hackney Horse Society which is based in Lexington, Kentucky.^[3]

Hackneys come in both pony and horse height ranges, and are one of the few breeds that recognize both pony and horse sizes. The Hackney Pony was developed in the late 19th century, when Hackney horses were bred to various pony breeds in order to create a very specific type of show pony.^[4]

Find your next Hackney horse or pony at http://hackneyhorse.myhorseforsale.com/horses/horsesforsale_search.php

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Rule 1. Buy a Finished/Trained Horse

A finished horse is a horse that has been trained in every aspect of his discipline. These horses do not require “tune ups” or repeated training sessions with a trainer. There is an old rule of thumb, “Somebody has to know something.”  Beginners are learning riders.  A horse that knows the discipline is a must.  Finished horses not only have experience but also know each and every voice command and leg aid.  These horses will respond to the rider’s aid whether they are correct or not.  As the rider gains experience the horse will become more selective, teaching the rider to be more correct with the aids each time they are applied.  Young horses learn quickly to disobey a rider who does not always apply the same aid.

Example: Hunter ponies.  Ponies that have recently (with in six months) started jumping are inconsistent in their fences.  If the rider is unsure about the fence the pony will often jump from the wrong spot or run out.  A finished hunter pony will select their spot and jump consistently every time.  The rider only has to concentrate on their position and staying on the horse.

Rule 2. Buy a horse with Experience and Age.

Buying an older horse is important for beginner riders. Look for horses aged 8 to 15.  These horses generally have been hauled, clipped, shown, or taken on rides outside their home environment. Experience can make up what a horse lacks in formal training as well.  Some horses have been hauled so many times and seen so many different things that this can way heavily in their favor even if they have not been formally trained in any discipline.

The most common mistake made by new owners is to buy a horse that they or their child can grow up with.  Horses are not puppies, and while cute and adorable while young they quickly grow up. Yearling horses can weigh as much as 800 lbs. and adult horses weigh an average of 1000 lbs.. Yearling and two year old horses require extensive training and discipline to become excellent riding horses.  A horse who has just started his training is considered “green” meaning he still has a lot to learn.

The average horse when well cared for has a useable life of 20 – 25 years.

Rule 3. Buy a mare or gelding.

Beginners should ALWAYS buy a mare or gelding. Mares and Gelding are typically consistent in their behavior and have limited swings in mood or temperament.  No matter how well trained, a stallion is inherently dangerous. Their behavior is unpredictable around other horses and therefore they must be monitored at all times by experienced individuals.

Stallions are not for the casual horseman, trail rider, beginner, or child.  They require separate feeding, stabling, and turnout areas. It takes approximately six to eight months after a stallion is gelded for the testosterone levels to decrease. It can take as much as a year to eliminate stallion like behaviors. A favorite saying in the industry is “good stallions make great geldings.”  Most stud colts or young stallions are gelded between 1 ½ and 2 years of age.

Riders must be 18 to show a stallion in most breed associations and they are not allowed at 4-H and Pony Club events.

Rule 4. Viewing the Horse

When going to see a prospective horse give an estimated time of arrival. Arrive earlier or later than expected.  Arriving at an unset time provides you the opportunity to view the horse as it is caught and to see his stable manners if he is stalled. Watching the horse caught or in the stall can also provide you with a look at his/her personality.

Additionally look for signs that the horse has been worked prior to your arrival. A horse that has been exercised before you arrive may not be well behaved or may not be as well trained as desired.

Rule 5. Watch the horse tied and groomed.

The horse you are viewing should be tied to be groomed and tacked. There are 2 forms of tying a horse. Straight tied means the horse is attached with one lead rope to an object in front of the horse.  The horse can be tied to a trailer, tying rack, in a wash rack, or to a hitching post/tree.

Cross-tied means the horse has leads connecting from opposite sides.  The leads are attached to either side of the halter and then to the walls on either side of the barn aisle or wash rack.

Occasionally a horse will be be left untied or “ground tied”. Ground Tied means the lead rope is left on the halter but hanging down to the ground. If you are looking at a horse tied in this manner, its important to ask WHY?

If the horse you are viewing is ground tied ask to see him tied to demonstrate this important skill. Horses that refuse to stand tied and set back can injure themselves and those around them. They are also difficult to haul and tack at events as you cannot leave them at your trailer and must hold them while visiting other places.

Grooming:

Watch the horse groomed by the owner.  The horse should stand quietly and  should not display any nervous behavior or any tendency to bite or kick at the handler.  The horse should also allow the handler to pick up all four feet with ease and demonstrate that they stand for cleaning and the farrier.

6.Watch the horse saddled, bridled, and ridden.

After the horse has been groomed, watch as the horse is saddled. The horse should stand perfectly still while the saddle pads and saddle are placed on the horses back.  The horse should continue to stand quietly while the girth is attached. If the girth is attached and the horse begins to ring his tail, tosses his head or acts up, question the owner about the horses behavior and keep it in mind as you look at others. This is a behavior that could be linked to arena sourness or pain and discomfort.

Once the horse is saddled, the owner will bridle the horse. Ask about the bit and note if it’s a snaffle or curb. The horse’s head should be level or parallel to the ground while the bridle is put on.  He should stand still while the bridle is placed over his ears and accept the bit without resistance.

RED FLAG: If the horse cannot stand still to be saddled or the bridle must be taken apart to be put on the horse. Say “No thanks” and keep looking.

Example: Pony Club riders are “Judged” on their ability to bridle a horse, if they cannot properly bridle they can lose points or in severe cases be eliminated from competition.

I cannot stress enough how important the next statement is.  ALWAYS watch the horse ridden before you get on. The horse should perform all 3 gaits (walk, jog/trot, canter/lope.) Listen carefully to what the rider says about the horse.  If the rider says, “well I usually lunge him for 20-30 minutes before I ride,” you can assume the horse is not trained to the level you are looking for.  Beginners need: Calm, Quiet, Gentle.

Note: On cold windy days horses may be lunged prior to riding if they are stall kept to allow them to express the extra energy those days create.

Example: On several occasions I have gotten on horses the owner either was not prepared to ride or couldn’t ride to find that the “broke, kid safe” horse bucked immediately. Safety should always be your primary concern, do not mount until you have seen the horse ridden by others, and always wear a helmet.

If the owner refuses to ride, thank them for their time and continue your search.

Rule 7. Buy a Height Appropriate Horse

Size can be a determining factor when buying a horse. Horses are measured in Hands. A Hand is 4 inches. A 15 hand horse is 60 inches tall or 5’ at the wither.  You want to purchase a horse that is height appropriate. You have to be comfortable with this horse on the ground and in the saddle. When you try a horse imagine sitting on that horse all day, would you be comfortable?  Can you mount and dismount unassisted if needed? Is the horse easy for you to lead?

For kids well-trained experienced ponies are great.  Ponies stand between 11 and 14.2 hands. The ponies are easy to tack, mount, and are not intimidating because of height.

For amateur riders and pleasure riders 14.2 to 15.3 hand horses are a great height.  This range is also good for kids who have outgrown a pony.  Horses in this height range are tall enough and stout enough for the average adult to be comfortable riding. Most stock type breeds (Quarter horses, Paints, Appaloosa’s) fall into this height category as due Morgan’s, Arabians and some other light breeds.

Warmblood’s generally stand between 15.3 and 17 hands; these horses are used extensively in dressage and jumping. Draft horses can stand any where from 15 to 18 hands tall and are typically very wide bodied. Draft crosses may not reach 18 hands, but can still be too wide for small riders.

Rule 8. Buy an appropriately trained horse for the level of the rider and discipline.

Ask yourself these questions.  How long have I been riding? Will my child or I need outside instruction? How confident am I? Am I buying a horse for one child or the family? The answers will determine the type and training level of your new horse.

For beginners, always buy quiet, calm, reliable, relaxed, mature, older horses trained in the discipline you wish to ride. If you are not one hundred percent comfortable with the horse on the ground and in the saddle – DO NOT BUY!!  There is a reason your not comfortable. Wait for the perfect horse to come along.

Amateur riders should look for calm, relaxed, well trained horses as well, but these riders (generally) have a 2+ years experience may be comfortable purchasing a horse that is only 5 years old and not fully finished in the discipline of choice.

If you are an experienced rider, be sure you have time to ride a “green” horse, if your buying for your family, make sure the horse is beginner safe.

Riding level is determined by many factors, including the number of hours you ride and your comfort level performing certain riding and non riding tasks.

To determine the number of hours you ride per year use the following formula.

Number of hours per week x number of weeks per year

Ex: 1 hour per week x 50 weeks = 50 hours per year (normal for riders only taking lessons each week.)

The following questions can assist you in determining riding level.

Beginners – answered “NO” to two or more questions and have less than 100 hours ride time.

Intermediate or Advanced  – answered “YES” to all of the above and has over 100 hours ride time.

Rule 9. Look at multiple horses, and never take your trailer on the first visit.

Too frequently people go see the first horse on their list and buy it based on color, or get pressured by the owner to purchase the animal before someone else comes back.   Please do not do this!

There are numerous sources available to look at horses.  It is easier to buy than to sell.  Look at as many horses as you possibly can.  If the horse is out of state ask for a video of the horse.  Ask a professional to evaluate the video with you.  If you are not comfortable looking at horses on your own ask a professional to go with you.

If you like a particular horse, go back and look at him/her again and again, if you still like the horse, make an offer to purchase. Take your trailer on the very last visit after the pre-purchase exam is completed and the horse has passed.

Its hard to say “no thanks” if your trailer is with you when looking at horses, and the sellers knows if you have a trailer your ready to pay the asking price. Leave the trailer at home and keep the negotiating powers on your side.

Rule 10.  Coggins, Vet Checks, Health and Farrier records.

In order to transport, show, or exhibit a horse in the United States they must have a current Coggins from a licensed Veterinarian. Coggins is a test for Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA or Swamp Fever). At this time EIA is a non-treatable disease that is highly contagious. For the horse to be sellable they must have a current (less than 1 year old) negative Coggins. Some states also require Certified Health papers less than 30 days old from a Veterinarian in order to transport.

Ask to see the owner’s records for shots, farrier work and de-worming.

Vaccinations: Horses are vaccinated once yearly for the following diseases: Rhinopneumonitis, Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis (EEE), Western Equine Encephalomyelitis (WEE), Venezuelan Equine Encephalomyelitis (VEE), Influenza, West Nile, and Tetanus.

Deworming: Horses should be de-wormed every 6 weeks.  Ask the owner for the brand used and last date of de-worming.  Also ask if the horse has been on a de-worming regimen for the last year.

Hoof Care: Horses usually have their feet trimmed or shod every 6 to 8 wks.  Ask the owner for the name and number of the farrier and last date of shoeing.  You can continue to use the same farrier if you are in the local area or simply ask him about the horse’s habits when being shod.

Vet Check: Before completing the purchase of your new horse locate an independent veterinarian to perform a pre-purchase exam. This consists of a flex test, health evaluation, and recommendation from the veterinarian.  If the horse has a health or lameness issue it will be revealed in the exam. If the horse you’re purchasing costs more then $3500 dollars it is also a good idea to have ex-rays of the horse’s legs taken as well.

Health Records: Ask the owner for all information related to the horses health and any vet records maintained by the owner, for the length of time they have owned the horse. It is important to ask if the horse has a history of Colic, ulcers, or a recurring lameness issue, as it can predispose the horse to have health problems in the future.

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